[Amiga] A2000 Battery Recovery

This is another repeated article from www.amiga.org.

Hi people,

in case someone needs to repair some damage done to the Amiga 2000 mainboard by a leaking battery, this is the right place for you.
Found that A2000 on eBay a few days ago. It was sold as defective and would not power up. Obviously, the seller didn't know too much about the computer, but I took the risk and got the item for about 45 EUR. Not too much loss if it was irrepairably broken.
It's a fascinating machine, pretty large and with a lot of space inside, so I won't ever need to think about heat dissipation like in my two A3000 models. In comparison, they are pretty crowded and less maintainable. The A2000 features the largest PCB of all Amigas (it's actually huge, about 4 times an ATX mainboard), and except for Agnus who is PLCC, all custom chips are still DIP-shaped like in the Amiga 500. A lot of Zorro slots provide great extensibility, and I was happy to find a Kickstart 2.0 ROM in there. Not much more though, no RAM expansion, no hard disk drive or anything else.
I have made an attempt to repair it today as this was another battery leakage victim like most of the Amigas who boast an RTC. The battery has done some bad-looking corrosion to the mainboard, and as the CPU socket is quite near to the battery, it was affected, too.

Tools needed to do this repair:

• soldering iron (mine is an Ersa Multitip 15 Watts, about 25 years old)
• some solder wire
• unsoldering tool (I used a cheap one-shot-and-reload vacuum pump with a silicon tip)
• multimeter to check that the PCB connections are still okay
• in my case, a new 68000 socket (DIP-64)
• (later) a button battery (CR2025 or CR2032) and an appropriate clip
• (later) a diode for the new battery to prevent destructive recharging attempts by the board

And here's what I did:

• completely disassembled the A2000 to find a 5,25" drive inside that does not connect to the board directly. Obviously some freak has converted a former external drive into an internal one, also keeping the adaptor PCB and a lot of cable straps, sigh... the connector cable needs to go out of the case to the external floppy port... ah well, that's going to be a different thread. I don't think I can bear this for long :-D
• removed the mainboard from the case and cleaned it a little. Some big flakes of dust have accumulated there over the years
• removed the battery (sorry, no pictures here) and thoroughly cleaned the PCB in that area. I noticed that the PCB is pretty delicate when trying to unsolder. The solder mask becomes damaged when exposed to too much heat for too long (and in this case, I think it is lots shorter than usual), and probably one would easily kill leads unless being extremely careful. Maybe the board's age adds to it.
• checked damage done by the corrosion. Nothing seemed to be actually broken and no leads seemed disrupted by the corrosive process. I sure hope it does not continue in the future.

The old battery after removing. I can't understand how Commodore could be so stupid as to place batteries directly on the board with no socket. Sigh... well, that seems what everybody did those days.

Notice the dark spots left by the corrosive. It has come pretty far and even dug along under the battery lead. The CPU socket shows traces of corrosion, too. See the greenish pins 1 to 6. I think this is the main reason the A2000 has failed (probably no good contact anymore)

Different angle

• I decided it's hopeless to clean the socket, plus I wouldn't get a chance to see if anything is broken beneath the socket, so I removed it completely. As unsoldering this item without damaging the board is near impossible, I broke the socket frame and pulled the plastic parts of it away from the board, leaving only the metal pins.

68000 socket, no plastic frame

• then I unsoldered all the pins one by one while pulling them away with a pair of pliers on the other side. That worked pretty well but left the soldering eyelets closed in most cases.

Socket debris

• to make unsoldering easier, I put some solder on all the eyelets so they would heat up more quickly on both PCB sides

68000 socket eyelets prepared for de-soldering

• after unsoldering, a visual check of the board against outside daylight offered no obstructed eyelets:

Shiny!

• this was a good time to do some measuring on the leads in the area affected. As it seems, all are fine, no leads broken. I scratched the masking paint from the place where the battery cathode was placed to see what has happened there. See the bluish touch of that beastly stuff?

Socket gone - blue traces of battery sludge beneath the masking paint

• now I inserted the new 64-pin socket and fixed it

New 68000 home from the PCB bottom

68000 replacement socket top view

Mind the copper lead I found where the battery was. Obviously there was no actual damage although the lead may have been thinned out considerably.

68000 in place again

68000 edge view

After connecting to the PSU and floppy, I carefully started the machine for the first time since I received it. The Kickstart screen came up and first attempts to load disks were successful! Yippieee, day saved! :-)

There are some things to do though. As I don't have a button battery and socket handy, I will have to do that replacement later. Maybe I'll post some photos about that, too.

Hope you liked this A2000 revival story!

Have a nice day,

Joe

[Amiga] Scandy A1200 Flicker Fixer

Hi people,



I've posted this article at amiga.org before, but as I want to keep track of all my projects here, I think it's okay to repeat.

Full view

The main PCB installed

Some time ago I got hold of a Scandy A1200 scan doubler module for the Amiga 1200. It consists of three PCBs which are plugged on top of LISA and both CIA chips inside the A1200. It features an additional VGA port, output is the same as on the video port, so you can use two monitors at the same time.
After some hours in vain trying to find a documentation about how to install it, I have decided to try on my own and let you folks know. I'd either find a way how to destroy the A1200, or successfully get the Scandy working. Luckily, the latter happened ;o)

In fact, cable lengths and positioning make it hard to mount the Scandy in more than one (correct) way, nevertheless I had felt better if there had been a paper instructing me.

After mounting it looks something like this:



Micronik has tried to indicate the orientation of the PCBs by putting the 45-degree edge of the socket in the same place it is on the respective chip, at least for LISA and the U7 CIA. The edge of the U8 does not point to the right direction though but never mind, as the pin count is the same on all edges it fits anyway.

The CIA sockets indicate where they belong so you can't do it wrong (see print beneath each socket):

U7 CIA (below parallel port)

U8 CIA (right above floppy connector)

Closeup of U7 and U8

All add-on PCBs

After some plugging and unplugging it finally worked. Maybe one should first check the socket pins for corrosion and dust which I forgot. My first results were "no VGA signal", and later the signal was first okay but seemed to collapse within a few seconds, with the CRT finally going to standby mode. No idea where that came from, eventually it seems to be okay.
Now I'll have to think about how to move the hard disk drive to another location as the Scandy becomes pretty warm over time. So please be warned: you should *not* put anything directly on top of the Scandy main PCB, it definitely needs some room to get rid of that heat!

The following photos were taken from a Dell WFP2407 TFT.

SysInfo

IntuiTest (640x512 @ 256 colours)

The IntuiTest screenshot indicates that there is no "flicker fixer" function. Scandy does not buffer complete frames but, to put it simple, buffers only the line that is currently sent to the CRT or TFT, and sends each pixel twice (i.e. with double speed) to the screen attached to the VGA port which in effect doubles the horizontal frequency without presenting a different content. I didn't expect anything else because a real flicker fixer is usually way more complex. This also explains why a Scandy A1200 only costs about half as much as, say, an Indivision 1200.
If you plan to use your A1200 mainly for gaming and less frequently for working (especially in interlace modes), the Scandy A1200 is a clever solution.
Just consider that most of the CompactFlash adapters will collide with the Scandy main PCB, as does my hard disk right now (missing the original metal shielding *argh*)

I hope this is helpful for some of you ;-)

Greets,
Joe

Mushkin 240GB SSD Drive for the W510

Hi everybody,

time for another first: my first notebook without mechanical drives!
The Lenovo W510 was delivered with an 160GB Intel Postville SSD drive built-in for the Windows Server 2008 system and program files, and a second 500GB Seagate Momentus 7200.4 SATA hard disk in the UltraBay (where usually a DVD or BD drive is installed). The Intel SSD got me pretty excited already as it's the first time I have ever seen Windows Server 2008 boot up in less than a minute from powering on until the desktop is ready to use. No more need for hibernation, yippieeh!
My idea was to use the larger disk for hosting VirtualBox hard drive images which I need for working on different platforms, and thus its performance was kind of vital.
As I'll soon work with a Microsoft Office Project Server 2010 Hyper-V development system soon that contains Windows Server 2008, SharePoint 2010, and Microsoft Visual Studio 2010, I believe you cannot have enough performance, this monstrum will still bring any system to its knees.
The Momentus disk is fast but I just wanted to find out if an SSD could go beyond that.
Well, it's gone impressively beyond the speed index I knew so far!

Package

Unlike earlier Mushkin metal case packages, the one I got is rather simple:

The package reveals a kind of "book" filled up with solid rubber foam to keep the valuable SSD safe.

Some screws (8 pieces), that's it. Not even a manual, a cable or anything. I'm a little disappointed that no 5,25-inch mounting frame was delivered. It seems there is some space reserved in the box to keep one. Well, I won't need it anyway now.

Okay, here's the protagonist:

Sorry, no "inside" pictures as I want to keep the warranty intact. If you want to see the innards though, look here, it's a review of the 60GB version: Legit Reviews - Mushkin Callisto 60GB.
The SSD replaces the Seagate Momentus disk in the UltraBay frame:

Ready to go. Here are some first test results. Please note that I used the notebook during the test, and the partition on which the test(s) ran were everything but empty. That drops results considerably I think. What counts for me is that the perceived speed is much higher now, especially when working with my VirtualBox machines.

Iometer 2006.07.27 results (1 Worker active, results after approx. 2 minutes)

More speed measurements by DiskTT:

DiskTT with 4kB block size - expectedly bad results

DiskTT with 64kB block size - now we're getting somewhere!

DiskTT on ecstasy! Excellent performance at 512kB block size

Iometer is a rather old tool, and reported the "worst" results. Well, I'm not too familiar with the program. A constant transfer of nearly 80MB/sec (reading and writing) is not too bad for a start. Well, there values are of course rather theoretical ones, and I have caused some impact by using the machine a little during the tests. Nonetheless, all this is way better than the previous classic hard disk.
Now let's hope it stays that way. There is a lot to read about performance dropping once the SSD needs to overwrite blocks that are not empty. Windows 2008 is TRIM-enabled and will hopefully keep the performance up. If there will be problems, there will be a blog :)

[solved] The WD WD5000BEVT hard disk self destruction

This goes out to all owners of a QNAP SS-839 Pro. I've owned the device for about 1,5 months now, and in general I'm pretty happy with it. However, the load cycle behaviour of the hard disks that I am using with the QNAP (8x WD5000BEVT 2,5-inch drives) had me doubt my happiness would last long.
The problem became clear when I checked the SMART details of each drive in the admin interface. Only a few days had passed since I first powered the machine up, and load cycles were already beyond 3000 for most of the drives. This seemed a little much and meant that drives would shut down and spin up about 400 times a day! It's just a belief, but I think that hard disk drives last longer if they run 24/7 instead of changing their power state that often. QNAP options didn't seem to contain switches to influence this from the host side.

SMART Statistics Illustrating the Problem

This is the chart that shows the load_cycle_count (193) SMART indicator for all of the drives. Note that I have disconnected drive 8 on August 22nd. It was configured as the hot spare drive, and I didn't want to continue wasting its lifetime.

I googled for these symptoms and found a considerable lot of reports of this problem, and repeatedly found that Linux as well as 2,5-inch drives were affected, regardless of whether a NAS configuration or a classic PC was used. There were some advice, too, but they required manufacturer-specific tools that I couldn't use, and WD didn't offer any tools for the 5000BEVT drives. The WD data sheets didn't show any usable info on power saving behaviour of the drives, so I decided to contact them.

WD Support

This is the text of the e-mail I wrote on August 19th:

Dear Sirs,

I have a question regarding the general power saving behavior of Scorpio Blue hard disk drives of which I own eight units that run in a QNAP SS-839 Pro NAS enclosure as a RAID-6. Watching the SMART data of the drives from time to time, I found out that the load cycle count of each disk goes up by 300 to 400 each day! That seems too much for my taste, and I'd like to find out why this happens.
The NAS is up and running all the time, so there is no impact on the general operation, but I'm worried about the reduced lifetime of the disks caused by these frequent shutdowns.
I noticed that the one drive that I have assigned as the spare drive does not shut down as often as the other drives. While most drives have about 8800 load cycles by now (after 3 weeks), the spare drive has ~5400 cycles. It is still questionable why the spare is this active as the it should not be doing much except being checked every once in a while, but instead it is nearly as much used as all the other disks which makes me worry if it is capable of saving the RAID for long once another disk fails.
I haven't found any options in the QNAP device software to control any of this. Currently it is unknown who is responsible for the behavior at all, either the NAS device or the disks. People in the QNAP forums couldn't help me so far, I hope you can help me find out.
The question is, do Scorpio hard disks shut down on their own, e.g. after being idle for some minutes to save power? Is there any way I can control this? I'd prefer to have each disk run 4 hours or so before it shuts down. In my optinion it is better for a disk to keep running than to shut down and spin up again constantly. Am I right with this assumption? I cannot find a tool on the WDC web site that would let me view or change the hard disk parameters. Does such a tool exist? I know from other HDD manufacturers that they deliver tools to adjust parameters such as AAM, and read detailed SMART data. Maybe WD has some tool of this kind, too?
What do you recommend I should do?

Thanks a lot for your support!
Best regards,

Johannes Franke

And wow! - indeed, the reply came in the evening of the same day, but seemed somewhat dissatisfying:

Dear JOHANNES,

Thank you for contacting Western Digital Customer Service and Support. My name is Tahimi.

I truly apologize for the inconvenience you are currently experiencing. Unfortunately Mr. Franke the first problem you are facing are the drives you are using on a RAID. Unfortunately we don't support Scorpio drives on a RAID array because they don't have the TLER feature enabled.

However, another bad news is that we don't have any feature or tool to manage the power or sleep timer of the drive.

To build a RAID array I recommend you to use our RAID edition drives like the RE3 or RE4. Please use the following link to get more info about the RAID edition drives.
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/index.asp?cat=2

If you have any further questions, please reply to this email and we will be happy to assist you further.

Sincerely,
Tahimi
Western Digital Service and Support
http://support.wdc.com

TLER is a nice feature which enables hard drives to report problems pretty soon to the host controller, and has both devices kind of negotiate on how to deal with the problem. Without this feature, a hard disk has about 8 seconds to come back with the data requested after the controller sent the request. If it takes longer, it is automatically set to FAILED state in the controller, and the user can't do anything but replace the drive, so TLER may help use drives longer, but for sure it is not required at all for normal RAID operation. Furthermore, the advice to use the RE3 or RE4 series of the WD drives is not applicable for me as they are only available in 3,5-inch form factor. Probably Tahimi didn't look up any info on what a SS-839 Pro is and what drives are supported.
I was also mad at QNAP because they have the 5000BEVT in their compatibility list for the SS-839 Pro [1]. This was not exactly confirmed by WD this way…

Finding the Needed Hint

After this, I tried tweaking the QNAP settings, removed all power saving settings as far as they were offered in the admin interface, and also removed the disk test jobs that I had created to make a daily quick test and a weekly full test for each of the drives. This dropped the load cycle growth down to about 10 times a day per disk (August 25 in the chart), but for some reason, there must have been a change between August 30th and September 8th that caused the load cycles to go further up again. I cannot remember what I did, and there was no more option to return to the previous state that I considered good.
Up to this point I didn't even know whether the frequent load cycling came from the QNAP and some of its built-in power saving mechanisms, or if the hard disks would shut down themselves after some idle time, so I investigated a little more yesterday. Victor Meldrew’s blog [7] was very interesting to read and pointed exactly in the direction I wanted – thanks Victor!

Enter: wdidle3!

Even though WD support denied it, there is a tool with only one purpose: tweaking the built-in "idle3" timer that triggers a shutdown of the disk after eight seconds (!) of idle time by default. WD calls this "IntelliPark", I'd rather call it "StupiSuicide"... oh well, get the tool here [2] or here [3].
The problem is that wdidle3 is a pure DOS tool, it cannot be run in any Windows environment. If you try, you will just get informed that the application is not allowed to run in the way you intended. That is, you need a DOS environment. Yes, such things still happen!

Creating a DOS Environment

Nowadays, FreeDOS and TUBCD are pretty popular and royalty-free. I chose TUBCD [5] but you can just as well use FreeDOS [4]. You will also need a PC that supports booting from USB memory sticks and features a built-in SATA controller. Third-party controllers will most probably not be recognized by the tool.
To customize TUBCD, and run it from a USB stick instead a CD, follow instructions at [6]. I skipped the chapters from Adding floppy images through Generating customized ISO image, and instead placed wdidle3.exe in the ubcd\tools\win32 folder inside the path to which I had unpacked the ISO. It can be run from there after booting. The creation of a bootable USB stick is described in the chapter Making UBCD memory stick in the customization instructions.

Lights On: Tweaking the Drives

This is what I did (main steps):

•    Created a bootable USB stick with The Ultimate Bootable CD plus wdidle3 as described
•    Shut down my PC, disconnected all hard drives from the mainboard, then connected the first of the eight drives I wanted to tweak
•    Placed the USB stick in one of the USB ports
•    Turned the PC back on and went to setup to modify the boot order: USB-Floppy (not USB-CD or USB-Harddisk) should be the first entry to ensure the system boots from the USB stick
•    Watched the sytem boot from USB. There may be some dialogs during the boot order that you need to confirm.
•    When the main menu appeared, chose UBCD FreeDOS
•    After the command prompt appeared, entered c: to get to the root of the USB stick
•    Entered cd \ubcd\tools\win32

Now you’re ready to use wdidle3 with the hard drive currently connected.

PLEASE NOTE: the steps described here worked for me, but may fail with your hardware. The wdidle3 tool is not officially designed to tweak the Scorpio Blue series of WD drives, and probably you are going to void your warranty once you use it. If you are extremely unlucky, the tool may corrupt your drive’s firmware and render it useless. Please keep in mind that you do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for any loss of data or damage to your hardware.

Please consider performing a full backup of your QNAP (or of each disk you are about to tweak) to make sure that a damaged drive is the worst thing that happens.

You can use wdidle3 with these parameters:

•    /? – displays a command line help
•    /R – reports the current timer status of the disk connected, along with the model and serial number
•    /D – disables the timer completely, i.e. the drive will never shut down on its own even when idle
•    /S{n} - sets the timer to the amount of seconds specified in place of {n} (values from1 to 255)
To disable the timer on the current hard disk, just enter

wdidle3 /d

Again, the hard disk model and serial number are shown, and the message should now also say that the timer is disabled. If so: congratulations! You are done!
I repeated this for all of the eight drives, and didn’t even need to power the system down and back up to disconnect the current and connect the next drive. That was a great timesaver, but let me repeat, this is something that no reasonable support personnel would ever recommend. Disconnecting and plugging in hardware while powered on is a very dangerous game, particularly for internal SATA ports which are not hotplug-enabled. It worked anyway with my Gigabyte GA-880GA-UD3 mainboard, using the following pattern. Feel free to try, but be extremely careful, and remember that it’s at your own risk:

1. After the current drive is done, disconnect the SATA data cable from it (the smaller of the two plugs)
2. Then disconnect the SATA power cable (larger plug)
3. Get the next drive and connect SATA power first
4. Take a listen - you should hear the drive spin up
5. Then connect the SATA data cable
6. Wait some seconds for the drive to be ready
7. Repeat the command line “wdidle3 /d”, and verify that it shows the serial number of the drive you have connected in step 3
8. Wait some seconds to ensure that no more writing to the drive takes place
9. Continue with the next disk at step 1

That way, I disabled the timers of all hard drives within a few minutes. Eventually the big moment came: all disks were reinserted into the QNAP (ensure the same order as before!), then powered up, and whoa, all data still there, wonderful! Since then, no load cycle count increased, on none of the disks. Case closed.

Conclusion

WD's strategies to make their drives less power-consuming are two-edged: while they do save power by quickly shutting down whenever possible, they tend to destroy themselves more rapidly than drives that keep running. In a mobile PC, the hard disk is one of the minor power consumers, mostly it's the display that draws most of the energy, so this power saving approach goes a little too far in my opinion. Another downside of it is that the OS is not aware of the drive's behaviour. On many laptops, the result is that the system seems to "hang" from time to time because the OS doesn't even know the drive has shut down. When it is accessed the next time (and in Windows, that's rather frequent), the HDD spinning up again causes a delay of a few seconds, making the system completely inaccessible until the drive is back up.
For sure, WD is not the only manufacturer who implements power saving like this. No manufacturer is likely to let you tweak predefined settings, and most of them will see this as a violataion of warranty conditions. It's a matter of trust. I think the WD drives are well-built and will not fail spontaneously. At least it's less likely if they keep running, instead of interrupting their operation over and over again. They will probably handle running 24/7 with ease, but only time can tell. If they do fail, I will probably have a hard time getting a replacement even if this happens within the guarantee lifetime. It's sad that there is so little official information about this. I hope this article may help other hardware desperados find what they need more quickly.

[1] QNAP Compatibility list for 2,5-inch drives
[2] wdidle3 download at WD
[3] wdidle3 download at private mirror
[4] Use wdidle3 with FreeDOS (German)
[5] The Ultimate Boot CD Download
[6] The Ultimate Boot CD Customizing
[7] I Don’t Believe It! Blog about WD self-torture

Addendum

[2010-01-12 19:28] Today, I inspected the SMART values again, and still the load cycle count has not changed for any of the disks! Wonderful!

Statistics from mid-August 2010 until today

Intro

Hi everybody,

this is the new place where i'll be posting my experience with consumer electronics, software delvelopment, and the like.
Hope you enjoy it.

Greets,
Joe