Due to repair counts mounting recently, I wanted to take the chance to describe the terms and conditions, and how a repair would go forward. It is supposed to make things easier for the interested, and saves me the trouble of explaining it individually via e-mail.
Conditions
Company / legal: since April 2025, I am running a so-called small business to do software development and hardware repairs
Invoicing: invoices will no longer explicitly show VAT for my services and items sold, only for external services such as DHL for shipping
Non-liability: whoever is sending me their stuff to fix accepts implcitly that I cannot guarantee any success ahead of time. There are plenty of reasons that might let a repair end in a total defect. Despite the fact that this has never happened in the past, I need to emphasize that this is not covered by any insurance and it is entirely the owner's risk to have me do repairs of their goods.
Guarantee: after successful repairs, I grant a 12-month voluntary guarantee, beginning at the time the device is back with the owner. Issues that can be traced back to my work or parts I used in the repair are covered and I will try my best to make this financially neutral for the owner, including shipping fees and parts if needed. Damage in transit is covered in the transport services tariffs. I will ensure that my parcels are packed in a way that nothing can happen to the valuable contents under the expected conditions.
Shipping:
- within Germany: DHL is the preferred service for receiving and sending goods
- within EU: similar, however, DHL is not available from door to door in all cases. Carriers may switch after the border was crossed. Parcel tracking should still work. If any service other than DHL is desired by customers, they need to give me the corresponding information in due time
- international (not EU, not USA): depending on the goods value I will create a CN22 or CN23 customs declaration, precisely specifying the goods being shipped and the estimated value. A device that was sent to me has a value or practically zero if it is entirely broken. It's different though after I have added value by repairing. The new net value of the device will be what is on my invoice. This is the only way to ensure that customs will accept the parcel and not withhold it. Recipients may have to go to customs pickup and pay fees and import taxes
- USA only: due to current political issues, DHL has almost suspended parcel services in both directions. Only parcels of private nature can be shipped, and their value must not exceed 100 USD. Commercial parcels cannot be processed. For the time being, I must unfortunately stop my services for USA customers, hoping this struggle will be resolved soon
Packaging: shipping services terms typically demand that a parcel needs to withstand being dropped from about 1m to the floor without the contents taking damage. Parcels that arrive here damaged, or whose content was damaged due to insufficient padding will be rejected. Please use stable cardboard boxes of the correct size, and ensure there is plenty of padding to protect the valuable device inside. Plase use boxes that are good enough so I can use them to return the goods to you.
Requirements for to-be-repaired devices: all senders are asked to ensure the devices being sent are clean and in one piece. Dirty, incomplete, mouldy, or insect-infested devices will be rejected (unless this was explicitly discussed in advance)
Scope of delivery: for repairing I usually only need the device itself and none of its accessories. If the infrared remote is free of issues, it does not have to be in the box. It's different only about the power supplies as they are often part of the problem. I do a load check on power supplies to see if they are still good enough for continuous usage or should be replaced. More additions like antennas, cabling etc. should stay with the owner.
Cost capping: depending on the device, I grant discounts to ensure the prices stay in a reasonable range. Currently these limits exist:
- Squeezebox Boom: 200€
- Squeezebox Classic: 160€
- Squeezebox Transporter: 400€
This means that a repair will not exceed these amounts. A Squeezebox Boom, for instance, can easily reach more than 200€ if both bass woofers and the display needed to be replaced, and the front panel was sticky as well..
Devices not listed here are individually handled and no price cap exists.
Repair Sequence
Making contact
I am reachable via e-mail (johannesfranke74@gmail.com) or in the well-known forums:
Forums - Lyrion : Community : Forums | JoeMuc2009
Squeezebox Forum - Foren-Übersicht | JoeMod2015
Communication via e-mail is preferred as it is much easier there to transmit pictures and documents, forum communication tools are too limited.
Depending on my workload it may take a few days until I find the time to reply. Some messages are misidentified as Spam. I regularly check the Spam folders, but it may add to the waiting period.
Preparations
After contact was made, I'll give you my address and, if possible, a rough preview of cost to be expected and the chances thereof.
As soon as the device is here, I confirm having received it, and will analyze it as soon as possible. The first analysis is free of charge. Besides the issues identified I will let you know what I plan to do about each, what parts I need to use, and what it is probably going to cost (non-obligatory).
In some cases, the full cost overview is not possible until the first repair steps were taken, e.g. a Squeezebox Boom with a defective display power supply may reveal after reviving the display that the display itself is beyond readable, or there are network connection problems or whatever. Some repairs need to be done step by step and additional cost may come up later.
In case the analysis and cost preview ends in the owner not wanting to spend that much, repair is aborted and the device sent back. Shipping cost will be the only thing to be paid.
Repair Process
During my repairs I take notes about what was done when, and what parts were involved. The resulting "repair sheet" is sent to the owner as a PDF document. If multiple devices were sent in, each gets its own page so it is always clear what device received what treatment.
If I find issues that weren't discussed previously, I will first describe the finding to the owner and let them decide whether to continue or not. Cost are always transparently shown, and it is possible for the owner to cancel the repair at any time.
After repairs are complete, each Squeezebox is tested thorougly:
- 24-hour continuous test on an uninterrupted playlist
- Connection tests (wireless and wired)
- Check of all outputs and inputs
Results are also tracked in the protocol. Only if all checks are passed, the Squeezebox is considered repaired..
I send the protocol to owners at these times typically:
- after issue analysis is complete
- after completing larger steps in the repair
- whenever something unexpected affects final cost
- after finishing all repairs
- in-between on owner's request
The repair sheet is part of the invoice and will be added as such as a paper printout, together with the invoice. Having these documents is proof that a Squeezebox is in the best possible condition which may help to achieve better revenues whenever a Squeezebox is being sold.
Invoice
The invoice is first rendered as a draft version in PDF format. It contains all info that the final invoice will also contain, with these exceptions:
- Shipping address (copied from the sender's information) - can be adjusted until the last moment
- "Payment confirmed" (added after payment was confirmed or received)
- parcel tracking information (first only a placeholder, later the parcel ID and tracking link are provided)
The invoice shows a separate position for each device including its serial number and will reference the repair sheet.
More positions may be goods and parts not involved in repairs, and the shipping fees.
Payment
SEPA Wire Transfer
The SEPA data are shown on the page footer of the invoice. This is my preferred mode of payment.
PayPal
May be the easier option for long-range transactions. Unfortunately I cannot predict the fees that PayPal may raise. Hence, the invoice total needs to be raised by 10% to cover all fees.
Example:Invoice total 100.00 EUR
PayPal advance fee 10% 10.00 EUR
----------
To be paid: 110.00 EUR
The invoice will contain a respective section in case PayPal is of concern.
PayPal fees will be withdrawn on the receiver's side so the senders do not even notice that the full amount does not make it to the recipient. In case that fees are less than the 10 percent addition, I will refund the overpayment immediately.
Example:
PayPal advance fee 10% 10,00 EUR Invoice total 100,00 EUR
PayPal amount sent 110.00 EUR
PayPal amount received 102.50 EUR amount overpaid 2.50 EUR PayPal actual fees 7.50 EUR Refund to sender 2.50 EUR
In case no fees were raised at all, I will refund the full 10%.
The "friends or family" option may be used to avoid fees, however, it does not always work as PayPal sometimes assumes a transaction to be of a business nature. In case fees are raised, these need to be paid by the customer.
Repair Descriptions / Known Issues
For repairs routinely done, here are some information to explain what the repair is and where the main effort is.
| Repair | Description |
|---|---|
| (only Boom) Refoaming a subwoofer speaker / per channel | Blog post As described in the blog, the Squeezebox Boom needs to be torn down completely to reach the speaker mounting points. Each speaker has four screws covered in glue that needs to be removed manually. The defective surround is cut off the cone and planed off the frame, requiring a sharp tool. After the old surround is gone, the remains of glue on the frame are ground to ensure the surface will accept fresh glue. Both sides are cleaned and fresh glue is placed, eventually the new surround is centered and pushed down gently all around, ensuring an airtight connection. |
| (only Boom) display replacement | Blog post The Boom's display is stuck down in three places with adhesive pads that need to be cut. The Wi-Fi antenna near the PCB top edge is removed as it covers at least three soldering points of the display. During production, some glue that is meant to fix the Wi-Fi antenna wires may have been dropped on top of the display's signal pins. In that case, it needs to be softened with hot air and manually scraped off to free the soldering pins. All 18 display pins are desoldered with low-melt solder. After that, the soldering pads need to be cleaned and freed of any remaining solder. The remains of old adhesive pads need to be removed from the PCB, first by softening them with adhesive remover, eventually cleaning all places with Isopropyl Alcohol. The new display gets three new adhesive pads and the black sticker tape is transferred from the old display (its purpose is to shield the light sensor from display stray light). The display is then stuck down and soldered in. The Wi-Fi antenna is placed in its home position and stuck down with another adhesive pad. In case the filament power supply has failed, the respective fix is applied as part of this repair. (see "Filament power supply fix" further below) |
| (Classic only) display replacement | Blog post The Classic's display is secured to the board via two adhesive pads that need to be cut. ll 18 display pins are desoldered with low-melt solder. After that, the soldering pads need to be cleaned and freed of any remaining solder. The remains of old adhesive pads need to be removed from the PCB, first by softening them with adhesive remover, eventually cleaning all places with Isopropyl Alcohol. the new display gets two fresh adhesive pads, is stuck to the board and soldered in. |
| (Transporter only) display replacement | Display replacement demands the front plate to be removed and disassembled entirely. Displays are fixed to the board in a similar fashion to the Classic. Replacement process is very similar, with the main difference being that it needs to be done twice. Eventually the front panel is assembled back together and joined to the case. |
| (Boom only) Filament power supply fix (included if the display is replaced) | Blog post This fix can also be provided in advance, and in a deactivated state until the internal circuitry actually fails. A switch is included and placed on the front-side of the PCB to enable the diode cascade optionally. To reach it, owners will have to remove the front panel only to reach the switch. |
| (only Boom, Radio) Treatment of front panel and rotary knob coating in case they have become sticky | The front panel and knob coating are subject to chemical processes that dissolve the top layer over time, resulting in a sticky surface. Not only is this ugly and not nice to operate, it can also cause buttons to be stuck after being pushed, and not returning to their idle position. The solution is to remove the part of the coating that dissolved. I am using a soapy water bath of around 60°C for half an hour, or longer if needed. It requires the front panel to be disassembled by loosening eight PH1 screws and remove the preset keys 1 thru 6. The knob and key mat are separated and put in a pot, together with the front panel. Once the procedure is complete, the sticky parts have bulged a bit and become white. They can be carefully scrubbed off with a sponge. Cured parts are dried to evaluate the need for another round. I ensure that the print on the front panel, and the black base coating, remain undamaged. |
| DC jack replacement | A common issue is corrosion in the DC jack. The nickel-plated surfaces develop an oxide layer that inhibits a good contact. As a result, the Squeezebox may reboot due to brief unpowered periods when the cable or plug are moved. A working connection would withstand movement. As the surfaces in question are hard to reach for cleaning, it is recommended to replace the entire jack. The Boom needs a 5.5/2.1mm, Classic and Touch use 5.5/2.5mm, and the Radio needs a 5.5/2.5mm vertical jack) |
| DC jack and plug replacement (requires the PSU to be sent along) | The DC plugs of the power supplies suffer from getting corroded or dirty. Most have a spring contact that wears out over time, so there are chemical and mechanical problems. Like the DC jack, the plugs are also hard to clean and should be replaced if no longer providing a stable connection. If desired, I can change both to a lockable combination where the plug is turned around 30° clockwise after inserting to lock it in place so it cannot be pulled out. The connection can be loosened by turning the plug counterclockwise accordingly. This type of connection provides better protection against corrosion and dust ingress. |
| Wi-Fi board replacement | The MiniPCI Express modules used for Wi-Fi connections in the Boom, Classic, Receiver, and Transporter, may get faulty, causing symptoms like a non-booting device, unstable network connection, random restarts. A new AR2413-compatible board can relieve these issue. In the Boom, the Wi-Fi board is stuck down with three adhesive pads, making the removal a bit harder as there are delicate components hidden benath. Devices not mentioned above (Radio, Touch, Controller) use a soldered-on chip to manage Wi-Fi so the replacement is not possible with them. |
| 3,5mm jack replacement | Jacks for Line-In, Line-Out/Subwoofer, and Headphones can corrode, too, and may become unusable over time. Contact cleaner may help in many cases but for the long run, it is best to place new jacks. The Boom uses jacks containing a DPST switch which is used to determine whether a plug is in or not. This allows the Boom to auto-switch to line-in, and mute the internal speakers if something is connected to line-out. This type of jack is rare nowadays, hence their pricing is a little higher. The Classic and Transporter use simpler jacks with no switching inside. The Transporter requires the mainboard to be removed though which is more effort. |
| Ethernet jack (RJ45) replacement | If one ore more pins in the 8-pin RJ45 connector are bent, missing, or malformed, or if plugs no longer lock in thanks to mechanical damage to the jack, it needs to be replaced. In the Classic, Boom, Radio, and Touch models it is easily reachable, the Transporter requires the mainboard to be removed in order to reach the soldering points. |
| Rotary encoder replacement (for large knob) | Rotary encoders are electromechanical devices having delicate contacts which may be subject to corrosion. This causes the knob to react erratically to being turned, turn direction may be reversed, or many turns are required to go to a previous or next item. Moreover, the encoders feature a pushbutton for selecting / confirming items, and these buttons take a lot of mechanical stress when Boom or Radio are sent with insufficient padding, or pushed too hard in operation. As these parts are not serviceable, they need to be entirely replaced if anything is wrong. As the Panasonic parts originally used in production are no longer available, I am using alternative parts from Bourns which need a little modification to reroute one of the pins. Other than that, they feel and operate the same way as the originals. |
| Firmware EEPROM reprogramming | It is unknown to this day why it happens, but many SB Classic, and some Booms as well, fail to start because they destroyed parts of their own firmware previously. This is generally a symptom of IP3K-based Squeezeboxes (Classic, Boom, in *very* rare cases the Transporter, and potentially the Receiver but it never happened there as far as i know). Newer devices are not affected. My top suspects are unstable power supplies and dying electrolytics, or a combination of both, which may cause the processor to glitch into a state where it applies write commands to the flash EEPROM in the wrong addresses. Basically any Squeezebox can write their own EEPROM in all places which is mainly used for upgrading the firmware, and in typical operation some configuration data like Wi-Fi access data and the LMS to which the system is connected are stored in flash as well. In some situations these write mechanisms may get employed targeting the wrong addresses, overwriting parts of the base program. When the device boots next time, it keeps crashing and restarting indefinitely. This can be resolved by desoldering the EEPROM with low-melt solder and flux, then cleaning it, inserting it in a programmer, erasing the old contents and writing a working image, adjusting the serial number in two places before writing. After that, the EEPROM is soldered back in place after the PCB was cleaned and prepared for the final step. Many SB3 reveal this issue after electrolytic capacitors were replaced, and they still wouldn't boot. The necessity of rewriting the EEPROM is something that comes in late in many cases, and cannot be foreseen. |
| (Classic only) SMD capacitor replacement | Blog post The Classic is known to have failing electrolytic capacitors (23 of them) after 12-15 years. The failure causes instability, random reboots, later the device will reboot whenever the DAC is employed in music playback, eventually the Squeezebox won't start up at all, losing all connectivity and only showing a very dim TOSLINK LED light, nothing else. Electrolytics may leak and cause damage to their soldering pads and the PCB around them. Two capacitors (C16 and C20) may have been placed in reverse in the design which lets them age prematurely. My resolution is to remove all these capacitors and clean up their remains from the solder pads, restoring all damaged pads and traces, then placing new high-quality electrolytics. C16 and C20 are replaced by bipolar capacitors which can tolerate AC and cannot be reversed. So far there is no known influence on the audio quality. |
| (Transporter only) 5VDC PSU replacement, using original PowerPax SW3376 | Blog post In case a Transporter no longer starts up or just clicks its relays, the 5V rail is no longer sufficiently supplied. The culprit is the small 5V power supply board that feeds the front panel and digital circuitry on the mainboard. The old PSU is replaced by an identical but new board. It is the cheapest option but also means that the new PSU will live no longer than the previous one. Issues will come back 15 years or so later. A better option is to replace the on-board capacitors of the new board by better components, and moving the new capacitors as far away from the board as possible to keep them off the heat sources. A PSU modified this way will potentially last much longer and also deliver cleaner DC power. Still, the PowerPax component is like a low-quality "alien" inside the Transporter where everything around is state-of-the-art, and generally not my recommended option to fix the Transporter. |
| (Transporter only) 5VDC PSU replacement, using Traco Power TMP15105C | Blog post The best option to provide 5VDC in the Transporter is using a high-quality power supply, the sort that is certified to work in medical or military equipment. They are way more expensive but I think the Transporter deserves it, and it is clearly a better match than the original PSU. I have made very good experience with Traco Power's TMP15105C which has an optional mounting plate for DIN rails that can also be used to give the PSU a secure place inside the Transporter's case. The TMP15105C is potted and has almost no electromagnetic emissions. It features screw terminals to prevent the risk of accidentally touching or shorting anything. The internal wiring in the Transporter needs to be modified slightly to accommodate the connections to the PSU. |
| (Transporter only) Replacement of the flat-flex cable (FFC) connecting front panel and mainboard | In case that the 30-pin flat flex cable was damaged, it can be replaced. These cables are almost impossible to repair so replacement is the best option. Both ends have the metal contact strips which tend to lift off the adhesive backing, causing risk of short circuits and generally bad contact. The cable is also sensitive to tearing. Inside the Transporter it connects the front panel and mainboard, not only digital signals but also the 5V power supply that is needed on the mainboard for the processor, CPLD, basically everything digital.. |
| (Transporter only) Replacement of FFC connectors on mainboard and/or front panel | The FFC connectors on the PCBs are very fragile as well. Each connector consist of two parts, one piece being the soldered-on base, the other being a moveable plastic bar that puts some pressure on the FFC once it was inserted, and locks it so it cannot leave the connector on its own. The plastic bar easily breaks when it is lifted in order to pull the cable. It needs to be done with great care, and if possible, to the same amount along its entire length with not too much difference. In case the plastic bar was damaged or is missing, the entire connector needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, the zig-zag pinout of the connectors available nowadays are exactly the wrong way. Where pin 1 (and all other "odd" pins) needs to face the top side of the connector, in all replacements it faces the other side, and all "even" pins face the top which is the wrong way around. This means that the replacement sockets need to be modified by pulling all the contact springs and inserting them the other way round. This is a very tedious task and takes a microscope and 30 minutes of work or more. |
| (Transporter only) Replacement of AC transformer(s) 2x115V / 2x18V or 2x9V |
The AC toroidal transformers in the blue square cases are used to power the analog circuitry and the DAC in particular. Each consists of a pair of 115V primary (high-voltage) and 18V or 9V secondary (low-voltage) windings. These need to be supplied differently between 230V and 120V AC mains regions. Hence, the 5V rail is the first to power up, and the transformers are started up in a 230V configuration, then the CPU determines if the secondary voltages of the toroids are 18V and 9V as expected, or half that. In the latter case, the configuration of the primary windings is changed from serial to parallel so each primary winding is getting the mains AC voltage directly to achieve the specified output voltages at each secondary terminal. The exact mechanism how this happens is undocumented and there is a lot of speculation in these lines. However, in rare situations it can happen that the transformers are fed 230V mains into their parallel configuration, i.e. each of the 115V primary windings is getting double its specified voltage which can easily cook the transformers. This is one of the faults that can only happen in the Transporter as it is the only Squeezebox directly taking mains input. Luckily, it happens very rarely though. Transformer defects are often visible as swelling, and they generate a lot of heat. To replace them, the mainboard needs to be removed from the case, the transformers need to be checked by measurements and the defective transformer (or both) must be desoldered. Before the new ones go in, the circuitry must be checked for errors to ensure that the next set of transformers is not blowing up again at the next power-up event. Defective / stuck relays may have caused the transformers to die so it is imperative that everything around the AC transformer primary side is tested until it works as it should. |
| (Touch only) EEPROM replacement | In rare cases, the Squeezebox Touch would no longer connect to any network, neither Wi-Fi nor wired, or would refuse to upgrade their firmware to a newer revision offered by the LMS. Unlike IP3023-based Squeezeboxes, the newer models such as Touch, Radio, Controller, use a larger-capacity EEPROM which I cannot read or write with the prorgramming devices available to me. The data structure is also different, with newer devices running a file system on the EEPROM whereas older devices use direct memory allocation. Attempts to replace the EEPROM entirely, sourcing one from a Touch that has otherwise failed (e.g. from blown-up power regulators) resuscitated two units, one fully, another at least far enough so it can use wired networking again, with Wi-Fi staying dead. So this replacement can only be done as long as there are donor devices ready. I cannot guarantee a steady supply here. As the serial number is part of the EEPROM data, changing the chip will also change the device's serial number. For consistency, I also transplant the device stand from the donor where the sticker contains the serial number. |
Price List
(as of 06.02.2026)
| Item | Net price |
|---|---|
| Noritake MN16032GB Display forSqueezebox Boom | 70,00 € |
| Noritake MN32032A Display for Squeezebox Classic (v3) and Transporter (which needs two units) | 78,00 € |
| Power supply for Squeezebox Classic / Touch (5VDC, >3A, table-top model) | 25,00 € |
| Power supply for Squeezebox Boom (12VDC, >3A, table-top model) | 28,00 € |
| Power supply for Squeezebox Boom (original wall plug, used) | 20,00 € |
| Power supply for Squeezebox Transporter (PowerPax SW3376, original part, 5VDC, 2.3A) | 24,00 € |
| Power supply for Squeezebox Transporter (PowerPax SW3376, original part, 5VDC, 2.3A) with modification for better electrolytic capacitors and heat protection | 38,00 € |
| Power supply for Squeezebox Transporter (Traco Power TMP15105C, 5VDC, 3A) | 60,00 € |
| DC jack 5.5/2.1mm for Squeezebox Boom | 4,00 € |
| DC jack 5.5/2.5mm for Squeezebox Classic (v3) and Touch | 4,00 € |
| DC jack 5.5/2.5mm angled for Squeezebox Radio | 6,00 € |
| FFC for Squeezebox Boom (connection from front panel to mainboard) | 9,00 € |
| FFC for Squeezebox Transporter (connection from front panel to mainboard) | 15,00 € |
| 3.5mm jack with DPST switch for Squeezebox Boom (Line In, Line Out) | 9,00 € |
| 3.5mm jack for Squeezebox Classic and Transporter | 6,00 € |
| RJ45 Ethernet jack | 12,00 € |
| Bourns rotary encoder for Squeezebox Boom / Radio knob (large) | 10,00 € |
| Rotary encoder for Squeezebox Radio knob (small) | 10,00 € |
| TOSLINK optical transceiver (Optical Digital Out, all Squeezeboxes) | 14,00 € |
| Spansion S29AL016D90TFI02 EEPROM (16 MBit, 3.0V) for Squeezebox Boom, Classic, Transporter (pre-programmed with Lyrion Community Firmware) | 15,00 € |
| Item/Repair | Net price |
|---|---|
| Refoaming subwoofers (per channel, including new surround) | 28,00 € |
| Display deplacement (not including the spare part) | 49,00 € |
| Filament supply repair (included if display is replaced) | 10,00 € |
| Front panel and knob treatment for sticky surface | 20,00 € |
| DC jack replacement (including spare part) | 8,00 € |
| DC jack and plug replacement (including spare parts, PSU needs to be supplied by owner) | 16,00 € |
| Wi-Fi board replacement (including spare part) | 16,00 € |
| 3,5mm jack replacement (including spare part) | 14,00 € |
| Ethernet jack replacement (including spare part) | 18,00 € |
| Rotary encoder replacement for large knob (including spare part) | 15,00 € |
| Firmware EEPROM reflash | 35,00 € |
| Item/Repair | Net price |
|---|---|
| SMD electrolytics replacement (23 pieces, spare parts included) | 85,00 € |
| Display replacement (not including the spare part) | 49,00 € |
| DC jack replacement (including spare part) | 8,00 € |
| DC jack and plug replacement (including spare parts, PSU needs to be supplied by owner) | 16,00 € |
| Wi-Fi board replacement (including spare part) | 12,00 € |
| 3,5mm jack replacement (including spare part) | 14,00 € |
| Ethernet jack replacement (including spare part) | 18,00 € |
| Firmware EEPROM reflash | 35,00 € |
| Complete outer case (black, Logitech branding, used) | 15,00 € |
| Front part of the case (black, Logitech branding, used) | 10,00 € |
| Back part of the case (black, Logitech branding, used) | 10,00 € |
| Item/Repair | Net price |
|---|---|
| 5VDC PSU replacement with new PowerPax SW3376 (original, including spare part) | 25,00 € |
| 5VDC PSU replacement with Traco Power TMP15105C (including aluminum mounting plate and wiring adjustments, not including the power supply) | 35,00 € |
| Dual display replacement (not including spare parts) | 70,00 € |
| Wi-Fi board replacement (including spare part) | 16,00 € |
| FFC replacement (including spare part) | 12,00 € |
| FFC connector replacement on front panel board (including spare part) | 25,00 € |
| FFC connector replacement on mainboard (including spare part) | 30,00 € |
| Firmware EEPROM reflash | 40,00 € |
| 3,5mm jack replacement (including spare part) | 18,00 € |
| Ethernet jack replacement (including spare part) | 22,00 € |
| AC transformer replacement for 2x115V / 2x18V (including spare part) | 35,00 € |
| AC transformer replacement for 2x115V / 2x9V (including spare part) | 32,00 € |
| Item/Repair | Net price |
|---|---|
| DC jack replacement (including spare part) | 14,00 € |
| Rotary encoder replacement for large knob (including spare part) | 16,00 € |
| Rotary encoder replacement for small knob (including spare part) | 16,00 € |
| Item/Repair | Net price |
|---|---|
| DC jack replacement (including spare part) | 18,00 € |
| Ethernet jack replacement (including spare part) | 22,00 € |
| Front panel with LCD and digitizer / touchscreen, used | 30,00 € |
| Case back panel with stand, used | 18,00 € |
| EEPROM replacement | 45,00 € |
No guarantee on any data. More prices can be given on inquiry. All prices are given without VAT in accordance to §19 UStG. VAT is not claimed so these prices are the amount to be paid. VAT only applies to external services such as shipping.
Spare parts are only available in low quantities. Please ask first before placing orders! Casing parts and EEPROMs are particularly limited and can only be sold if present in stock.
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